Wax on, wax off: Understanding cosmetic wax technology

 

A wide range of organic ozokerite wax compounds used in waxes to alter skin texture, thicken, waterproof, and increase SPF and They also improve formulations' wash/rub/wear resistance.

Wax melting points

Waxes are solid, hydrophobic materials at room temperature. They have melting points of over 40 degrees Celsius and are insoluble with water. However, they can be dissolved in hot cosmetic nonpolar and polar emollients. The waxes can be cooled to form small crystals which can bind oil and provide structure. High melting point waxes can be used to thicken formulations and improve their wear properties. Low melting point waxes are mainly used as feel modifiers and do not contribute to the structure. These include:

·         Lanolin

·         Petrolatum

·         Shea butter

·         Cocoa butter

 

 


 

Do you need a wax material to make your next formula?

UL Prospector lists thousands of wax materials from worldwide suppliers. Prospector makes it easy to find technical data, request samples, and pricing, and get in touch with suppliers. Now There are several chemical classes of waxes. Hydrocarbons, esters, and triglycerides are the main chemical classes for waxes. Alcohols, fatty acids, and triglycerides are also important. Many of these classes are also polymeric and can be used by filmmakers. Both synthetic and natural waxes are widely used, with natural-based products growing in popularity rapidly. Further, waxes can be broken down into petroleum-derived and plant-derived substances. Some of the most widely used waxes are petroleum-derived, such as:

·         Paraffin

·         Ozokerite

·         Polyethylene

·         Synthetic

·         Microcrystalline

Natural waxes most often contain saturated triglycerides, or esters, with alkyl chain lengths between C12 and C30. Triglyceride waxes can be obtained by fractionating vegetable oils or hydrogenating vegetable oil. This converts unsaturated alkyl chains to saturated ones. These are the most well-known natural based waxes:

·         Cetyl, Stearyl/Behenyl alcohols

·         Stearic acid

·         Carnauba

·         Candelilla

·         Beeswax

·         Hydrogenated vegetable oils

Waxes as structuring/thickening agents

The most important function of waxes is to thicken oil-based, water-based lamellar-crystalline gel network-based formulations. Waxes are also key ingredients because they provide stability and excellent in-use properties for stick/hot poured cosmetics such as lipsticks, blushers, and eye shadows. Antiperspirant sticks are the most popular anhydrous wax-based formulation. They typically contain Cyclomethicone, antiperspirant actives, and Stearyl alcohol gel.

Anhydrous thickening systems that are efficient and use a mix of crystalline and non-crystalline waxes to achieve the best crystal structure and stability are the best. Amorphous and crystalline waxes have good oil binding properties, while amorphous ones provide strength. Too much crystalline wax can lead to brittle sticks and cracks. To reduce crystal size during cooling, small amounts of highly branched waxes may be helpful. This promotes oil binding and flexibility. To ensure good shelf stability, the melting point of the formulation must be higher than 55°C. Otherwise, the liquid emollients can cause the structure to bleed. Formulators refer to this as "sweating".

Making sticks with waxes

Sticks must have excellent in-use properties, mold release properties, and stability. High melting point waxes may provide excellent heat stability, but can also cause poor skin application. Low levels of high melting point Synthetic wax and Polyethylene can increase the melting points of other waxes, without affecting the skin's payoff. It is important to use waxes that have the right amount of shrinkage upon cooling when making moldable sticks. Otherwise, mold release can be negatively affected. These are the most common waxes used in molded stick products:

·         Ozokerite

·         Carnauba

·         Candelilla

·         Beeswax

·         Microcrystalline

·         Polyethylene

Combinations I like include Behenyl/Carnauba/Candelilla (an all-natural option) and Microcrystalline/Polyethylene.

Waxes used to thicken oil in water emulsions are restricted to low hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) ingredients that can associate with high HLB emulsifiers to form lamellar crystalline gel networks that can bind water and thicken the emulsion. These structures are used to thicken and stabilize oil-in-water emulsions, which can be combined with hydrophilic copolymers such as Acrylate copolymers, Carbomers, or Xanthan Gum. These waxes are commonly used to create lamellar, crystalline gel networks:

·         Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl alcohols

·         Stealth 2

·         Stearic acid

·         Glycerol Stearate

·         Sorbitan Stearate

Waxes as waterproofing/wear-enhancing agents and the versatility of polymeric waxes is their ability to be used as structuring agents, and also to give formulations long-lasting waterproof and wear properties. These waxes are used to enhance wear resistance and transfer resistance.

Use waxes to boost your SPF

SPF-boosting waxes can increase the SPF of emulsion-based formulations and wash resistance. These are the best-in-class waxes:

·         Tricontanyl/VP copolymer -260 percent increase using 3%

·         Silicone Candelilla-200 percent boost using 1%

·         C20-40 Alcohols-196 percent boost using 2.5%

The amount of sunscreen used, the formulation used and the type thereof can all have an impact on how the results are achieved. High levels of waxes can cause skin irritation.

Continue reading:

·         Contemporary Formulation: Oil-in-Water Emulsifiers

·         Solubilizing Oils into Water

·         Sunny Days Ahead For Waterproof Enhancing Technologies

·         A Touch Of Color: Contemporary and Historical Lipstick Formulation

These views, opinions, and technical analyses are solely those of the advertiser or author and do not necessarily reflect those. This content is not an endorsement of UL or any affiliates. Copyright applies to all content. No reproduction is allowed without the prior permission of UL or the content author. This content is provided for educational and informational purposes only. The editors may occasionally verify the accuracy of the content, but we cannot be held responsible for any errors made by authors, editorial staff, or other contributors.

 

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